Stikkordarkiv: seven summits

Turning the expedition into relief work, Part 2

Turning the Everest – Lhotse Expedition into Earthquake relief work, Part 2

IMG_6078

I have been involved in projects in Helambu, Gorkha and Sindhulphalchok with Hillary Relief Collective, Karmaflights and my own private initiative.
The shelter project for Kutumsang (and surrounding areas) which is one of my own projects, is still ongoing. Supplies have been purchased with the money you my friends have been so generous to donate.
I am humbled and impressed with the generosity of those who have supported our efforts.
Thank you! Tusen takk! Danke! Grazie! Gracias!

IMG_6027 P1020585

Her are some of the stories and how it all started.

After helping my team’s sherpas and porters cleaning up in Base Camp, I started my walk down the Khumbu Valley to Lukla. On my way I saw minor destructions. Luckily there were not many buildings totally destroyed. Some just needed a lot of repair. I stopped in Pengboche and visited our beloved sherpa Kami and his family. Luckily his house had only minor damage at second floor. I also visited a family who my dear climbing friends Andrea and Karl are supporting their son with education and work. I decided to support his sister: so now I am proudly paying for her next 5 years of school.

P1010900 P1010997

After a couple of days in Namche Bazar Andrea, Karl and I literally ran down to Lukla to catch a plain to Kathmandu. We heard a lot about how it might be in Kathmandu, but to my surprise it was not so different from before. I only saw some buildings totally collapsed. But many stores were closed and the city was very quiet. And people had moved out, living under tarps in their gardens or at all open spaces in town.

IMG_5756 IMG_5759

The people in the streets had changed from climbers, trekkers and other tourists to aid workers. We gathered at some hostels and some coffee shops and discussed how to help in the most efficient way.

I very quickly understood that I had to go out in the field. I volunteered for Hillary Relief Collective and Karmaflights and went out to the Helambu province where we established our FOB (forward operation base) in Timbu.
The first days were focused on delivering out needed food and materials such as rice, oil, blankets and tarps.

P1020290 P1020339

P1020088 P1020084

Then we went on 3 days patrols to spread the word where everyone could come to collect what they urgently needed. And people were coming form a far. Some walked for days, and carried sacks of rice with them home, – with a big smile and a warm «thank you»

P1020307 IMG_5925

P1020354 P1020274

At one of the 3 days patrols I went on, I came to Kutumsang. What I saw there, and on my way up to Kutumsang, was massive destructions. All buildings were totally collapsed. Brave families had tried to save as much as they could and had started sorting out the rubble. They are amazing in their ability to continue their lives and look forward!

IMG_5832 IMG_5793

The 7th of May I celebrated my birthday under a tarp with a kitten on my lap and a warm cup of nepali tea in my hand, surrounded by wonderful people. I will never forget this birthday.

IMG_5933 P1020187

The 12th of May was another strange day:
We had just closed our distribution-room to take a lunch break and were heading back to our little tent camp. We had only walked 20 meters when the ground started shaking. And this was not tremors or aftershocks. A new earthquake had hit Nepal hard.
I had to grab some kids trying to run into their houses to seek for their parents. I hold them tight while they were screaming. We were surrounded by collapsing buildings. Around us and high up in the hillside we could just watch the dust clouds rising from collapsing houses and huge landslides.

We gathered in our tent camp and set our strategy; we couldn’t get hold of a group of our own volunteer who had left for Kathmandu only 30 minutes before the earthquake, so we sent out a patrol to check the road. Later we got news they had safely arrived Kathmandu.
Then our little Aid Post got busy: a 67 year old man was carried down to us. He had broken off humerus (upper arm bone) and torn off his brachial artery. We had to act fast. I was working together with a nepali doctor and a nurse from US. We managed to control his bleeding until we finally got him helicoptered out after 2 hours. Later we got news that he had survived and were in good conditions at the hospital.

P1020330

We continued our work out in Timbu, and delivered out both food, hygiene articles, mattresses and clothes, but now it shifted to also deliver out materials to rebuild, such as hammer, nails and corrugated steel.
IMG_5946 IMG_6026

Then I headed back to Kathmndu, but only for a couple of days to get a proper shower and do some laundry. Then I headed out on my next project: out to the epicentre in Gorkha. And what awaited me there can not be described in words. Everything was rubble, nothing was left standing….not a single thing, not even a stable or an outhouse.
We were welcomed with open arms, big smiles and several cups of tea. I stayed for some days making sure supply arrived and starting building temporary shelters together with the villagers before heading out for the next village, and the next village, and then the next school and the next health post….
This were really busy times, trying to get the maximum out of my time and the materials we managed to provide.

IMG_5983 P1020539

IMG_6010 IMG_6054

IMG_6058 P1020757

At one of the villages I managed to get a bad stomach infection and had to get back to Kathmandu for a couple of days rest (and easy access to toilet). Then I headed out again for more rebuilding projects. This time back to Helambu and Kutumsang. Here I started my own projects with invaluable help from Laki. He and his family who lives in Kutumsang has become my family over here. The only thing missing is my nepali language skills…..working on it :)

P1020838 P1020880

P1020996 P1030099

In Helambu we started building temporary shelters for the health post in cooperation with my dear friend Lizzy. Then we continued with facilitating building temporary shelters for 5 different schools, one more health post and 5 villages. I got fantastic help from Sudip, Kashmir and Mewack; 3 engineer students from Kathmandu. And how did we manage; well we got the materials and tools out there, the villagers came walking, some 3 to 4 hours walk, to learn how to build and to carry home the materials. Laki has been following up on these projects all the time, running from village to village providing me with reports and photos. And the results are so rewarding to see. If it wasn’t for this effort, approximately 800 children would have been without any school, 7000 villagers would have been without any health post and 250 villagers would have been without proper shelter.

P1030151 P1030162

P1030231 P1030234

IMG_7035 IMG_7165

My last project before leaving Nepal after more then 3 months work, was with Remote Access Operation (RAO) for World Food Program (WFP). They needed mountaineers to help getting supplies into remote areas that were cut off by landslides due to the earthquake.
I worked together with the local mule drivers to open the Larke Pass at 5100m to get rice and oil over the pass and into the remote areas in upper Gorkha. These villages have normally supply carried in by 1000 mules – daily! Now they were totally cut off. We had to work on the pass for 3 weeks before it was possible to start the mule trains going over the Larke Pass supplying 20000 households with 65 tons of rice.

P1030481 IMG_6221

At the last little village I visited at the other side of Larke Pass, I found Pemba; a low-cast man who was paralysed and just waiting to die. He was a father of 7 and his wife was pregnant with their 8th child. I could see right away that this man needed to be evacuated and with the great help from Isabella Messanger and her organisation KarmaFlights, we managed to helicopter him out the same afternoon. And I am so happy to tell you that his wife gave born to a perfect little baby girl 5 days after Pemba got evacuated. And now 2 months later, Pemba is ready to go home to his family and see his daughter for the first time.

IMG_0555 IMG_6907

IMG_7334 IMG_7361

As of mid August 2015, over 390 aftershocks have occurred.

I returned back to Norway but not for long. And now I am back in Nepal to continue the work with all this different projects that we started before the monsoon.

My last expedition to Khan Tengri was dedicated to support our earthquake affected brothers and sisters in Nepal.
Stay tuned here to see my updates from my work in Nepal and from my Khan Tengri Expedition.

P1010746

Take care of your self – and others!
Vibs / Team Jentesport

Turning the expedition into relief work, Part 1

Jentesport i Camp 2 på Mt Everest

Turning the Everest – Lhotse Expedition into Earthquake relief work

What was supposed to be an expedition in white, cold, clean snow on Mt Everest and Lhotse, turned in to be a journey in rubble, aid trucks, aid work, shelter-building, mules, rice, metal sheets, pipes, bandages and wonderful people!

Last time you heard from me I was moving from Base Camp to Camp 2
It started out as a cold night turning into a wonderful day climbing through Khumbu Icefall up to Camp !

P1010366 P1010354

P1010386 P1010487

P1010497 P1010523

We had two nights in Camp 1 before we at the 25th of April woke up to cloudy weather and started to move up to Camp 2.

P1010593 P1010599

I was at the glacier between Camp 1 and Camp 2 when we heard huge avalanches coming down both from the Everest side and from the Nuptse wall. The ground was shaking as if I was standing in a little boat in rough sea. We were four of us gathering and holding together until the shaking and avalanches had past. Little did we know about the earthquake causing a regional disaster…..

We moved as quick as possible up to Camp 2 and there we got the news about the earthquake. We got news over our radios about the devastation in Base Camp. Our sherpa friends tried to contact their families without any luck as all telephone lines were out. We gathered around a little radio tuning in some FM stations and got bad news.

P1010610 P1010639

We waited it out up in Camp 2 and started rationing food, batteries etc.  After two nights in Camp 2 we moved down to Camp 1 and got evacuated by helicopter down to Base Camp.

P1010621 P1010696

What waited us in Base Camp was beyond words. Huge areas swept away….
Bits and pieces spread all over, people wounded and equipment destroyed or gone. But I met my friends…. alive and most of them without injuries. I was so happy!
But very sad about losing so many good people in this huge disaster.

P1010766 IMG_5655

I stayed in Base Camp to help cleaning up. my tent was gone: I found it crashed into a big rock 200 meter away from where it originally was placed.
So I moved into my friend Ryan Water/ Mountain Professionals dining tent. I stayed in Base Camp and we all discussed about possibilities to continue climbing, but we found out very quickly that this is a huge disaster; we can not continue up here.
And I found out; I can be of good help other places in this country and try to give back a little to this wonderful people of Nepal.

IMG_5612 P1010746

So I left Base Camp and a dream
But I started on a new journey, another dream, so fulfilling and so rewarding; helping the people in need.

Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2015: BC daily life and the plan

IMG_5551
Everest Base Camp: Our daily life and preparations for the climb

It is just so wonderful to be here in Base Camp. Now we have changed mode totally: from our hike up the valley to our upcoming climb of the mountains. All «summer-clothes» and hiking-equipment are packed away, and our climbing gear are the closest to us now.

I have moved in to my home for the next 6 – 7 weeks. My little tent is nicely organized and decorated with prayer flags with my best wishes for my friends and family written on them; waving and sending good wishes with the wind.

We have set up a plan looking like this:

APRIL
15th: Pudja Ceremony
16th: Training
17th: Training
18th: Remembrance day for the big accident last year
19th: Training
20th: Climb to the first ladder in the Khumbu Icefall
21st: Rest in EBC
22nd: Move to Camp 1 (C1)
23rd: Rest in C1
24th: Climb to Camp 2 (C2)
25th: Rest in C2
26th: Descend to Everest Base Camp (EBC)
27th – 30th: Rest in EBC

MAY
1st: Climb to C2
2nd: Rest in C2
3rd: Climb to Camp 3, touch and descend to C2
4th: Descend to EBC
5th – 9th: Rest below EBC
10th: Arrive EBC again
11th: Rest in EBC
12th: Climb to C2
13th: Rest in C2
14th: Climb to Camp 3
15th: Climb to Camp 4
16th: Rest in Camp 4
17th: Summit :) :)

So this is the plan, but as you all know; all plans are made to fail at first try….No we do not hope so, but we have had a lot of snow the last days, and we have heard that there will be another weather system coming in. So we will be waiting out the weather if it is too bad. I will keep you posted on our progression.

P1000851

But first let me tell you about our life in Base Camp. We start our day every morning with breakfast at 8am, after breakfast we get some time to check internet (if it is up running) and «dress up» for the ice; that means getting our climbing gear on, such as big boots,harness, crampons, helmet, ice axe. Then we head out to the ice 5 minutes walk from our tents.

P1010089 P1010251

As you all probably know Everest Base Camp is built on the Khumbu Glacier. That means, the glacier moving all the time and the camps have to be built up from the bottom every year. And we are actually living on the glacier. So our training area is right on our «doorstep». In the ice our sherpa team have set up different obstacles; ladders in different angles and ropes on steep ice walls. We practice here so that our transitions and different problem solving will go automatically when we are up in the Khumbu Icefall and on the mountain.

P1010321 P1010329

After some good hours training we go back to camp and our delicious lunch at 1pm. After lunch we normally have the time off until dinner at 6:30pm. In this spare time there is always some equipment to do improvement on, some emails to send, some pictures to transfer, a shower (bucket shower) to take or last but not least a lot of very good friends to visit. It is like a happy good family living here in EBC at the Khumbu glacier.

But the EBC is big, it will take me approximately 45 minutes to walk from one end to another. It is like a little city of tents this year housing 375 climbers and an equal amount of sherpas, and not to forget the staff (such as kitchen staff) supporting all the teams here. So it is pretty amazing to walk around Base Camp and meet all the people here and see all the impressive work been done constructing this Base Camp.

Life goes on here in Base Camp and in some camps the day ends with a movie night or with a good game of yatzi.

P1010302

We now plan for our first move up the mountain. Tomorrow Monday the 20th we will make our first move towards the Khumbu Icefall. We will do a climb of approximately 3 hours and return to our home here in EBC before we Thursday the 23rd will move up to Camp 1 above the icefall at 5800m. And if all goes well we will try to have two nights in C1 and 2 nights in C2 at 6300m before we return to EBC (5300m) the 27th.

/ Vibs
Team Jentesport

 

Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2015: Journey to Everest BC

P1000776

My journey from Kathmandu to Everest Base Camp

Snowy morning in BC. I can’t believe we have been in Base Camp already 3 days…well, in a way it also seems like we have been here forever.
So, what has happen since I left Kathmandu (and left kind of reliable internet and connection to the world?..)?
We have had a fantastic hike up the Khumbu Valley. First we flew into Lukla, a very short flight 40 minutes from Kathmandu with a lot of turbulence and a scary landing which I all missed cause I slept through it. We had breakfast next to the airfield before we headed out into our adventure towards Everest Base Camp.

P1000083 P1000084

The first day we only walked for about 4 hours including a tea break. And arrived Phakding and moved into our lodge there after a wonderful hike through small villages and along the river, enjoying flowering cherry trees and rhododendron, children playing with thin cans, the long suspension bridges and loaded yaks.
This is our scenery through the Khumbu valley, increased with more stupas (small temples) along the way. The next day we hiking to Namch Bazar (3440m), the capital of the Himalayas. Here we stay for 3 nights and go for acclimatization hikes and of course visiting the bakery serving good cakes, coffee and wifi.
After our 3 days in Namche Bazar we head off to Deboche (3820m), but of course with a stop in Tengboche (3860) with the beautiful monastery and the famous bakery. We attended the ceremony in the monastery which was wonderful meditative, and then we headed down to our lodge for the night. The day after we hike to Dengboche (4400m), but not before visiting the great Lama go this region. We were welcomed at the Lamas house and got his blessings before we headed up to our lodge in Dengboche were we stayed 2 nights.

P1000107 P1000237

Here we enjoyed one acclimatization hike (to 5200m) and a couple of visits to the bakery (our last bakery before Base Camp). Now the surroundings are changing; no more trees and rhododendron, it is now harsh and cold with rocky terrain and a magnificent wiev to more and more snow covered mountains.

P1000450 P1000263

The next two days we hike first to Lobuche (4910m) and then to Gorak Shep (5140m). This is the last little settlement before Base Camp, and the next day we woke up to snow covered surroundings. Everything is so white, clean and shiny!!! What a nice way to enter Base Camp!! Everest Base Camp welcomes us snow covered: the nicest possible way!

IMG_5537/ Vibs

 

 

Carstensz Pyramid 2015

Summit!  Photo: Ryan Waters
Summit!
Photo: Ryan Waters

Ojojoj for en tur!!!!
Dette må dere bare få med dere!! Jeg har vært på den mest fantastiske tur en kan tenke seg (i min verden ihvertfall).
Og denne gangen var vi en gjeng med venner på tur, som jo alltid er det aller beste!!
Vi møttes alle sammen på Bali; Ryan og Chris fra US, Silvia fra Peru, Kat fra UK, Marius og jeg fra Norge.
Fra Bali tok det oss en hel dag med flyturer…jeg tror vi hadde til sammen 7 flights og deretter en helikopter-tur før vi endelig landet i Base Camp. Og reisen til Base Camp (BC) er et eventyr i kultur og natur:

Carstensz Pyramid - 624 P1020112

P1010932 P1020070

Vi besøker avsidesliggende landsbyer og handler på markedet, vi overnatter på små gjestehus og bestiller mat fra det lokale mobile gatekjøkkenet. Alltid med god hjelp fra Sofyan – vår indonesiske guide og venn. Og i Base Camp blir vi endelig kjent med våre gode venner og guider Arlan og Bruri som blir med oss og følger oss resten av turen. Nå er teamet komplett, og vi er i Base Camp.

P1020191 P1020382 P1020394 P1020322

Vi setter opp vår lille Base Camp ved foten av fjellet vi skal klatre, jeg tror det er første gang jeg har BC så nær innsteget for toppbestigning. Fjellet ruver like over oss og vi kan nesten ikke vente….

Vi går en liten akklimatiseringstur før regnet setter inn og vi samles til ett av mange slag yatzy. Vi storkoser oss i BC og ser med glede frem til en liten smakebit på klatreruten dagen etter. Været følger sitt vellkjente mønster med regntunge skyer som kommer sigende inn rundt lunsj, masse regn utover kvelden og stjerneklart ved sengetid.
Dag 2 i BC går vi gjennom utstyr og klargjør for en tur opp klatreruten mot toppen. Vi har fint solskinnsvær og vi er hoppende glade der vi starter vår klatring. Det blir en fantastisk forsmak på hva som venter oss i natt.

P1020906 P1020567 IMG_9219 IMG_8935

Vi tar tidlig kvelden etter noen runder med yatzy og nok et deilig måltid forbredt av Arlan for anledningen med min rosa parykk …som seg jo hør og bør for en god «french chef».

Carstensz Pyramid - 769 P1040828

Vi starter klatredagen klokken 2 på natten med deilig kaffe….noe som har blitt turens desidert høydare…kaffe er et must!!!
IMG_8983 IMG_8989

Etter en god porsjon ris er vi klare til å starte vår tur mot toppen klokka 2. Med hopelyktene lager vi en fin liten slange oppover mot innsteget. Det er fin temperatur og stjerneklart så vi har en fantastisk opplevelse der vi klatrer oppover. Dette fjellet byr virkelig på morsom klatring! Vi legger inn noen pauser på naturlige hyller og platåer, og like før vi starter på «head wall» ser vi lyset komme i øst. Men det varer ikke lenge før tåka og skyene velter inn så vi ikke får sett soloppgangen. Men lyset kommer, og oppe på traversen letter skydekket og vi får se den fantastisk utsikten flykte forbi. Skyene kommer og går og vi har magiske øyeblikk der vi klatrer på ryggen mot «the tyrolian traverse». Her rigger vi opp og hiver oss over en etter en. Det er et luftig svev med mange hundre meter rett ned, og en fabelaktig utsikt helt ned til Base Camp «and beyond».

Carstensz Pyramid - 727 P1020813 P1020687 P1020761

Vi forserer flere «steps» som er pilarer vi firer oss ned til, klatrer over og opp på den andre siden. Luftig og fantastisk!

Vi nyter det og både synger og danser fugledansen og forteller morsome historier underveis. Vi har noen latterkuler uten like der vi klatrer oppover, og etter cirka 8 timer står vi alle sammen på toppen i 10tiden den 14.mars. Skyen kommer drivende igjen og «lukker» sikten når vi er på toppen, men vi nyter det og synger og danser. Jeg tror vel aldri det har vært sunget og danset så mye på en summit som vi fikk til. Her var det liv hele veien. Og nå ventet en fantastisk tur ned. Ja, vi gleder oss til den også. Vi har det så fint at vi ikke ønsker at dette skal ta slutt. Turen ned er like fin selv om vi får både sludd, hagl og plaskregn. Fjellet blir raskt glatt og vi bruker noe lengre tid, men er vell nede i 15tiden. Da har Bruri deilig mat klar til oss, og ikke minst en kopp kaffe. Og la oss ikke glemme et slag yatzy før vi tar tidlig kvelden :)

P1020950 P3130143 IMG_9002 P1020955

For en fantastisk dag!!!!

Og turen er på langt nær over….i morgen starter vi et nytt eventyr: vi skal gå 5 dager over fjellet og gjennom jungelen.

Først går vi over den nærmeste lille fjellpasset og ned til den gamle Base Campen hvor vi overnatter ved et vann som lyser turkis farget av brevannet.

P1050003 P1050038 P1050144 Carstensz Pyramid - 801

Morgenen etter stifter vi bekjentskap med våre portere. De skal hjelpe oss med vår bagasje gjennom jungelen. De er stolte og utrolig trivelige fra den lokale Dani-stammen. Førsteinntrykket kunne arte seg noe fiendtlig der de forhandlet pris og satte opp sinte ansikter, veivet litt løssluppet med lange masjetter og klagde over at vi ikke gav dem sko. Det var nok et godt regisert skuespill, for de viser seg å være verdens vennligste, hjelpsomme og inkluderende mennesker som barfott trippet gjennom sump og jungel med store bagger balanserende på hodet. Dette var en opplevelse uten sidestykke; å gå sammen med dem over nok et fjellpass, over stepper og fjell dekket av palmetrær, før vi gikk inn i jungelen. Når vi klarte å gå oss vill og miste stien, varte det ikke lenge før en av de lokale kom med et gjennkjennende rop eller en hjelpende hånd når vi skulle forsere elver og vaklevorene trestammer.

IMG_9360 IMG_9287  P3180783 P1050495

Hver kveld campet vi sammen med dem og fikk se hvordan de tilbredte dagens fangst: en tre-kenguru eller et kjempe-pinnsvin. Vi lærte at alt som har pels og fire ben heter CousCous…noe vi på Grünerløkka forbinner med noe helt annet….

Vi fikk sitte rundt leirbålet med dem på kvelden og vi fikk se hvordan de «pyntet» seg med å male sot i ansiktet hver morgen.

P3190788 IMG_9817 IMG_9680 IMG_9574

Og den femte dagen ankommer vi deres landsby bestående av 5 hytter, utallige griser, hunder og barn. Det er som å komme gående inn i paradis. Her løper alle rundt i skjønn harmoni, og alt er som det sikkert har vært i 1000 år.

DSCN6921 IMG_9776

Vi tilbringer vår siste natt i villmarken her før vi morgenen etter blir hentet an en gjeng «hooligans» på motorsykler. Siste etappe går for full speed over stokk og stein, gjennom bekker og ikke minst alle gale forbikjøringer av hverandre før vi ankommer flystripa i utkanten av en liten landsby her midt i jungelen. Etter litt venting på flystripa, som kunn blir krysset av en grise-familie (who says pigs can’t fly?), lander det et fly og kapteinen hopper ut og sier: «no seats! Ok?» Tja, hvorfor ikke :) Vi hiver inn bagasje og oss selv og blikkboksen tar av. Dette går da strålende…. Og nå flyr vi tilbake til sivilisasjonen. Det er med en melankolsk følelse vi ser alle de lokale, motorsykkelgjengen, våre venner og jungelen bli mindre og mindre bak oss.

DSCN7075 P1060184 P1060188 P1060199

En uforglemmelig tur!!
IMG_9218

 

Aconcagua, Januar 2015: Del 2 Base Camp – Summit

IMG_8312

Aconcagua, Januar 2015:
Del 2, Base Camp – Summit og sikkert ned igjen
Livet i Base Camp (BC) er hærlig; Og skikkelig ferie for oss som er guider; ingen matlaging, snøsmelting osv. Og her er mange kjente å dra på besøk til, dem man bare treffer oppe i fjellene – det er trivelige gjennsyn! Alltid god stemning i Base Camp. Vi har en hviledag her før vi starter å «flytte» oppover i fjellet. Først starter vi med en bæredag dvs at vi bærer opp slik som alt kjøkkenutstyr, mat og «summit»-klær til neste camp. Vi forsøker å få opp så mye som mulig for på flyttedagen blir det alltid tunge sekker uansett for da inkluderes sovepose, liggeunderlag og telt.

IMG_8092 IMG_8106 IMG_8120 IMG_8163

Neste dag flytter vi fra BC Plaza Argentina opp til nedre Camp1 (C1). Det er en enkel dag hvor vi bare øker høyden fra 4200m til ca 4800m. Her etablerer vi camp sammen med to andre team og har et sosialt utekjøkken sammen med dem siden været er så fantastisk. Foreløpig ser værprognosene flotte ut med lite vind så vi følger skjema og har påfølgende dag  bæredag for deretter å flytte opp til Camp 2 Guanacos på ca 5400m. Her bor vi sammen med ca 6 andre team. Dette er en flott camp med fantastisk utsikt og en bekk som renner gjennom camp og sørger for lett tilgang til vann (når den ikke er frosset til).

IMG_8205 IMG_8195 IMG_8173 IMG_8171
Vi får inn værvarsel som gir oss sterk vind i høyden så vi legger inn en ekstra hviledag før vi flytter opp til Camp 3 Colera på ca 6000m. Her er det folksomt; dette er high camp for begge ruter: både Vacas og Horocones (normalruten). Nå forbreder vi oss til toppstøtet i morgen. Vi pakker ferdig sekkene, får i oss mat og tar tidlig kvelden for morgenen etter er det revelje allerede klokken 04 og vi starter å gå mot toppen kl 0530.

IMG_8247  IMG_8255 IMG_8260  IMG_8259
Vi har strålende vær og nesten ingen vind. Det er fantastisk og vi er mange team som går sammen og nyter turen: først som lysende perler (hodelyktene) på en snor oppover fjellsiden, deretter i det fantastiske orange lyset fra de første solstrålene, siluetten av Aconcagua speilet i atmosfæren og de lange skyggene våre. Vi tar en god pause i «the cave» før vi klatrer opp Canaleta hvor vi må vokte oss for mange steinras.

IMG_8287 IMG_8271 IMG_8270 IMG_8265
Vell oppe kan vi nyte en fantastisk utsikt i nesten ingen vind. Vi nyter dette til max tid kl 1630. Da bærer det ned til Camp 3; varm suppe, te og en god natts søvn. IMG_8222 IMG_8221

Dagen etter pakker vi opp alt utstyr på sekkene: nå skal fjellet «ryddes». Vi skal ha med alt ned fra Camp 3 Colera på ca 6000m til Base Camp Plaza de Mulas på 4300m Det er en lang dagsmarsj ned men med en uslåelig utsikt som en bare må gå og la sige inn. Vell nede i Base Camp på Horoconas-siden av fjellet, er vi 3 team som har fulgt hverandre hele veien, – vi samler oss nå til feiring med vin og seiersmiddag: alle nådde toppen! Vi feirer under en fantastisk stjernehimmel før vi «crasher» på rekke og rad i spise-teltet. Dagen etter er siste dagen hvor vi vandrer ut Horoconas-dalen fra BC Plaza de Mulas. Vi tilbringer en natt i Penitentes før vi drar til Mendoza og møter sivilisasjonen igjen.

Atter en fantastisk tur til Aconcagua er over, men jeg håper å komme tilbake snart!!

Og kanskje du er med da?

IMG_8347 IMG_8353

Aconcagua, Januar 2015: Del 1 Mendoza – Base Camp

Summit Acon2015

Aconcagua, Januar 2015:
Del 1, Mendoza – Base Camp

Ja, da er jeg tilbake etter en fantastisk måned i fjellene i Argentina. Første gang jeg var her var i 2011, og det var deilig å være tilbake igjen. Denne gangen guidet jeg en gruppe opp til toppen av Aconcagua som er det høyeste fjellet utenfor Himalaya. Det er også det høyeste fjellet i Sør-Amerika og således et av «The 7 summits».

Jeg vet at det er mange av dere som har et ønske om å bestige Aconcagua og jeg vil derfor gi dere min historie med bilder her. Les og kos dere :) og bli med så raskt du finner muligheten til det!

Vi møttes alle sammen i Mendoza som er en «liten» by på ca 1,7 millioner. Her hadde Garrett og jeg forberedt for turen med innkjøp og pakking i et par dager før alle var samlet. Men det er jo ikke by-liv, vin-smaking og basseng-kant vi er kommet hit for…
Vi tar buss til Penitentes som er det siste tettstedet før vi starter vandringen innover Vacas-dalen. Ja denne gangen skal vi gå inn Vacas-dalen og ut Horcones-dalen (Horocones-dalen regnes som «normal-ruten»).
I Penitentes får vi en deilig middag, god seng og siste dusjen på lenge før vi drar i vei inn mot fjellet.

IMG_4500 IMG_4508 IMG_7935 IMG_7939

Dag 1: Punta de Vacas 2400m – Pampa de Lena 2800m
Vi våkner til strålende solskinn og nesten ingen vind. Vi registrer oss inn i nasjonalparken og starter vår vandring langs elven innover Vacas-dalen. Dagen i dag er en meget rolig og god start. Når vi kommer til leiern våres Pampa de Lena setter vi opp telt og starter på middagsmaten. I dag lager vi bare en salat for muldyr-førerne, våres kjære cowboys, griller oksekjøtt til oss alle. Det er det beste kjøttet jeg har spist. Det er god stemining rundt leirbålet. Og den blir ikke dårligere når jeg serverer stekte bananer :)

IMG_7950 IMG_7956 IMG_7960 IMG_7968

Dag 2: Pampa de Lena 2800m – Casa de Piedro 3200m
Nok en fantastisk dag med strålende sol og ingen vind. Her er det rom for å bli solbrent!! Den høyeste solfaktoren jeg fant i dag var å kline sandstøv i 50-faktoren min. Dagen i dag er også en rolig dag langs elven. Og like før vi kommer til camp kan vi se Aconcagua for første gang på turen. Det er alltid et høydepunkt!!!
Våre cowboys griller kylling til oss i kveld før vi koker vann og finner teltet under en billion stjerner.

IMG_7985 IMG_7996 IMG_8003 IMG_8018

Dag 3: Casa de Piedro 3200m – Plaza Argentina 4200m
Vi startet dagen med en liten ridetur!! Vi fikk skyss over den isklade elven, og det var vi glade for. Vi startet i dag endelig med å få litt mere høyde. Det er flott å gå hele dagen opp Relinchos-dalen med vakre Aconcagua fremfor oss. Vi har lunsj midtveis og nyter synet av ville guanacos (lama-familien) i fjellsidene før vi vandrer videre mot Base Camp Plaza Argentina.
Det er som å komme til en by; her er det utrolig mange team, noen på vei opp og andre på vei ned. Nå er vi her, og i morgen skal vi ha hviledag :)

IMG_8040 IMG_8053 IMG_8070 IMG_8074

Denali 2014

Happy campers :)

Looking back at the 16 fantastic days in the mountains I will here give you pictures and a short overview of the climb:

23 June: packing and flying out to Base Camp at the glacier
24 June: waking up at 3am and marching to camp at 7800ft.
25 June: snowy and windy climb up to our cache point.
26 June: stuck in camp due to more then a meter of snow dumping that night. And fixing my broken tooth.
27 June: one more day in camp due to snow. Having fun snowshoeing and building snowman.
28 June: moving up to camp at 11000ft. Taking with up our cache. Heavy load now!!!

image  image

29 June: the clouds are closing in. We are building snow walls and crossing fingers for better weather.
30 June: moving up our cache to Windy corner at about 13000ft
1 July: moving up to camp at 14000ft
2 July: collecting cache at Windy corner
3 July: moving up our cache to 16000ft ridge
4 July: rest day in camp at 14000ft. Happy 4th of July!
5 July: moving up to camp at 17000ft
6 July: SUMMIT
7 July: staying at camp 17000ft due to snow storm
8 July: 18 hour climb from 17000ft to Bas Camp
9 July: flying out

Happy days!
Vibs / Team Jentesport

image