Stikkordarkiv: high mountain

Diran Expedition 2016; Preparation and training in Slovenia

diranMy next expedition to Diran 7266m (23,839 ft), Karakoram range in Gilgit-Baltistan in Pakistan, I will be climbing with my good Slovenian climbing friends Irena, Mojca and Tomaz. We first met at Mt Makalu Base camp at 5800m and spent a lot of time together there. All the three of them have climbed several peaks in Pakistan before so I am so happy to be in the team now. It will be loads of things to learn and to experience together!
But first we needed to get together and set all the logistics; we had to plan concerning gear, food and schedule.
Early May I found myself  a cheap ticket to Ljubljana, Slovenia. Very easy…no…So for all of you: if you want to keep the costs down you actually fly all the way over to Istanbul, Turkey and then return to mid Europe: Ljubljana, Slovenia….I felt bad concerning the environment :(
So, after one day travel I finally arrived and was picked up by my dear friends at the airport.
​And who could come up with a better place to do our planning then this place up in the Slovenian Alps!!! Check out my bedroom!!!!

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We had some great days planning. We sorted out everything concerning gear and food; who brings what? how many slings, ice screws, shuffles….? how many tents for which camps? what kind of food and how much? Then we planned for our tickets to Islamabad and we filled in our applications for visa. This all to be sent off so we could get our «letter of invitation». Which all have to be attached when we apply for visa at our respective embassies.
Then after sorting out all the planning and going through all our gear, we needed to start the paper work and emails. Now we had to try to get sponsors ….a very difficult job. So we all agreed to do our efforts in following weeks. First we need a tent, maybe we can borrow it from some climbing friends…. Lets see what we manage. Still working on that!!! Do you have a tent for us ? :) :)
Then we needed base layers. And we are so super happy to get ACLIMA onboard: we are so proud to announce that ACLIMA AS are sponsoring all of us with everything we need concerning base layers and wool!!! During our expedition we will do thoroughly testing of all the great gear we received!
Thank you ACLIMA!!
In between the planning we got the time to enjoy the Slovenian Alps :)
For breakfast Irena invited me to run up the little bump behind her place…only 1000meter up up.
​An excellent way to celebrate my birthday-breakfast :)
And of course we did a 2000m peak near by. In lovely weather we enjoyed it!
…little did I know who was invited: Irena was actually asked to guide the US ambassador to Slovenia.
We had a really fun and nice climb!!!

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And the following pictures are to inspire all of you to come to Slovenia and enjoy this beautiful country! Fantastic mountains, picturesque small villages, charming restaurants, welcoming and hospital people, and everything within short driving (or bicycle) distance. You have it all: interesting history and geography, mountains, cost line, lakes, very tasty food and the charming capital Ljubljana.
Here is to tempt you: Enjoy the pictures!

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Turning the expedition into relief work, Part 2

Turning the Everest – Lhotse Expedition into Earthquake relief work, Part 2

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I have been involved in projects in Helambu, Gorkha and Sindhulphalchok with Hillary Relief Collective, Karmaflights and my own private initiative.
The shelter project for Kutumsang (and surrounding areas) which is one of my own projects, is still ongoing. Supplies have been purchased with the money you my friends have been so generous to donate.
I am humbled and impressed with the generosity of those who have supported our efforts.
Thank you! Tusen takk! Danke! Grazie! Gracias!

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Her are some of the stories and how it all started.

After helping my team’s sherpas and porters cleaning up in Base Camp, I started my walk down the Khumbu Valley to Lukla. On my way I saw minor destructions. Luckily there were not many buildings totally destroyed. Some just needed a lot of repair. I stopped in Pengboche and visited our beloved sherpa Kami and his family. Luckily his house had only minor damage at second floor. I also visited a family who my dear climbing friends Andrea and Karl are supporting their son with education and work. I decided to support his sister: so now I am proudly paying for her next 5 years of school.

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After a couple of days in Namche Bazar Andrea, Karl and I literally ran down to Lukla to catch a plain to Kathmandu. We heard a lot about how it might be in Kathmandu, but to my surprise it was not so different from before. I only saw some buildings totally collapsed. But many stores were closed and the city was very quiet. And people had moved out, living under tarps in their gardens or at all open spaces in town.

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The people in the streets had changed from climbers, trekkers and other tourists to aid workers. We gathered at some hostels and some coffee shops and discussed how to help in the most efficient way.

I very quickly understood that I had to go out in the field. I volunteered for Hillary Relief Collective and Karmaflights and went out to the Helambu province where we established our FOB (forward operation base) in Timbu.
The first days were focused on delivering out needed food and materials such as rice, oil, blankets and tarps.

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Then we went on 3 days patrols to spread the word where everyone could come to collect what they urgently needed. And people were coming form a far. Some walked for days, and carried sacks of rice with them home, – with a big smile and a warm «thank you»

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At one of the 3 days patrols I went on, I came to Kutumsang. What I saw there, and on my way up to Kutumsang, was massive destructions. All buildings were totally collapsed. Brave families had tried to save as much as they could and had started sorting out the rubble. They are amazing in their ability to continue their lives and look forward!

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The 7th of May I celebrated my birthday under a tarp with a kitten on my lap and a warm cup of nepali tea in my hand, surrounded by wonderful people. I will never forget this birthday.

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The 12th of May was another strange day:
We had just closed our distribution-room to take a lunch break and were heading back to our little tent camp. We had only walked 20 meters when the ground started shaking. And this was not tremors or aftershocks. A new earthquake had hit Nepal hard.
I had to grab some kids trying to run into their houses to seek for their parents. I hold them tight while they were screaming. We were surrounded by collapsing buildings. Around us and high up in the hillside we could just watch the dust clouds rising from collapsing houses and huge landslides.

We gathered in our tent camp and set our strategy; we couldn’t get hold of a group of our own volunteer who had left for Kathmandu only 30 minutes before the earthquake, so we sent out a patrol to check the road. Later we got news they had safely arrived Kathmandu.
Then our little Aid Post got busy: a 67 year old man was carried down to us. He had broken off humerus (upper arm bone) and torn off his brachial artery. We had to act fast. I was working together with a nepali doctor and a nurse from US. We managed to control his bleeding until we finally got him helicoptered out after 2 hours. Later we got news that he had survived and were in good conditions at the hospital.

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We continued our work out in Timbu, and delivered out both food, hygiene articles, mattresses and clothes, but now it shifted to also deliver out materials to rebuild, such as hammer, nails and corrugated steel.
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Then I headed back to Kathmndu, but only for a couple of days to get a proper shower and do some laundry. Then I headed out on my next project: out to the epicentre in Gorkha. And what awaited me there can not be described in words. Everything was rubble, nothing was left standing….not a single thing, not even a stable or an outhouse.
We were welcomed with open arms, big smiles and several cups of tea. I stayed for some days making sure supply arrived and starting building temporary shelters together with the villagers before heading out for the next village, and the next village, and then the next school and the next health post….
This were really busy times, trying to get the maximum out of my time and the materials we managed to provide.

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At one of the villages I managed to get a bad stomach infection and had to get back to Kathmandu for a couple of days rest (and easy access to toilet). Then I headed out again for more rebuilding projects. This time back to Helambu and Kutumsang. Here I started my own projects with invaluable help from Laki. He and his family who lives in Kutumsang has become my family over here. The only thing missing is my nepali language skills…..working on it :)

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In Helambu we started building temporary shelters for the health post in cooperation with my dear friend Lizzy. Then we continued with facilitating building temporary shelters for 5 different schools, one more health post and 5 villages. I got fantastic help from Sudip, Kashmir and Mewack; 3 engineer students from Kathmandu. And how did we manage; well we got the materials and tools out there, the villagers came walking, some 3 to 4 hours walk, to learn how to build and to carry home the materials. Laki has been following up on these projects all the time, running from village to village providing me with reports and photos. And the results are so rewarding to see. If it wasn’t for this effort, approximately 800 children would have been without any school, 7000 villagers would have been without any health post and 250 villagers would have been without proper shelter.

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My last project before leaving Nepal after more then 3 months work, was with Remote Access Operation (RAO) for World Food Program (WFP). They needed mountaineers to help getting supplies into remote areas that were cut off by landslides due to the earthquake.
I worked together with the local mule drivers to open the Larke Pass at 5100m to get rice and oil over the pass and into the remote areas in upper Gorkha. These villages have normally supply carried in by 1000 mules – daily! Now they were totally cut off. We had to work on the pass for 3 weeks before it was possible to start the mule trains going over the Larke Pass supplying 20000 households with 65 tons of rice.

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At the last little village I visited at the other side of Larke Pass, I found Pemba; a low-cast man who was paralysed and just waiting to die. He was a father of 7 and his wife was pregnant with their 8th child. I could see right away that this man needed to be evacuated and with the great help from Isabella Messanger and her organisation KarmaFlights, we managed to helicopter him out the same afternoon. And I am so happy to tell you that his wife gave born to a perfect little baby girl 5 days after Pemba got evacuated. And now 2 months later, Pemba is ready to go home to his family and see his daughter for the first time.

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As of mid August 2015, over 390 aftershocks have occurred.

I returned back to Norway but not for long. And now I am back in Nepal to continue the work with all this different projects that we started before the monsoon.

My last expedition to Khan Tengri was dedicated to support our earthquake affected brothers and sisters in Nepal.
Stay tuned here to see my updates from my work in Nepal and from my Khan Tengri Expedition.

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Take care of your self – and others!
Vibs / Team Jentesport

Turning the expedition into relief work, Part 1

Jentesport i Camp 2 på Mt Everest

Turning the Everest – Lhotse Expedition into Earthquake relief work

What was supposed to be an expedition in white, cold, clean snow on Mt Everest and Lhotse, turned in to be a journey in rubble, aid trucks, aid work, shelter-building, mules, rice, metal sheets, pipes, bandages and wonderful people!

Last time you heard from me I was moving from Base Camp to Camp 2
It started out as a cold night turning into a wonderful day climbing through Khumbu Icefall up to Camp !

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We had two nights in Camp 1 before we at the 25th of April woke up to cloudy weather and started to move up to Camp 2.

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I was at the glacier between Camp 1 and Camp 2 when we heard huge avalanches coming down both from the Everest side and from the Nuptse wall. The ground was shaking as if I was standing in a little boat in rough sea. We were four of us gathering and holding together until the shaking and avalanches had past. Little did we know about the earthquake causing a regional disaster…..

We moved as quick as possible up to Camp 2 and there we got the news about the earthquake. We got news over our radios about the devastation in Base Camp. Our sherpa friends tried to contact their families without any luck as all telephone lines were out. We gathered around a little radio tuning in some FM stations and got bad news.

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We waited it out up in Camp 2 and started rationing food, batteries etc.  After two nights in Camp 2 we moved down to Camp 1 and got evacuated by helicopter down to Base Camp.

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What waited us in Base Camp was beyond words. Huge areas swept away….
Bits and pieces spread all over, people wounded and equipment destroyed or gone. But I met my friends…. alive and most of them without injuries. I was so happy!
But very sad about losing so many good people in this huge disaster.

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I stayed in Base Camp to help cleaning up. my tent was gone: I found it crashed into a big rock 200 meter away from where it originally was placed.
So I moved into my friend Ryan Water/ Mountain Professionals dining tent. I stayed in Base Camp and we all discussed about possibilities to continue climbing, but we found out very quickly that this is a huge disaster; we can not continue up here.
And I found out; I can be of good help other places in this country and try to give back a little to this wonderful people of Nepal.

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So I left Base Camp and a dream
But I started on a new journey, another dream, so fulfilling and so rewarding; helping the people in need.

Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2015: Journey to Everest BC

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My journey from Kathmandu to Everest Base Camp

Snowy morning in BC. I can’t believe we have been in Base Camp already 3 days…well, in a way it also seems like we have been here forever.
So, what has happen since I left Kathmandu (and left kind of reliable internet and connection to the world?..)?
We have had a fantastic hike up the Khumbu Valley. First we flew into Lukla, a very short flight 40 minutes from Kathmandu with a lot of turbulence and a scary landing which I all missed cause I slept through it. We had breakfast next to the airfield before we headed out into our adventure towards Everest Base Camp.

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The first day we only walked for about 4 hours including a tea break. And arrived Phakding and moved into our lodge there after a wonderful hike through small villages and along the river, enjoying flowering cherry trees and rhododendron, children playing with thin cans, the long suspension bridges and loaded yaks.
This is our scenery through the Khumbu valley, increased with more stupas (small temples) along the way. The next day we hiking to Namch Bazar (3440m), the capital of the Himalayas. Here we stay for 3 nights and go for acclimatization hikes and of course visiting the bakery serving good cakes, coffee and wifi.
After our 3 days in Namche Bazar we head off to Deboche (3820m), but of course with a stop in Tengboche (3860) with the beautiful monastery and the famous bakery. We attended the ceremony in the monastery which was wonderful meditative, and then we headed down to our lodge for the night. The day after we hike to Dengboche (4400m), but not before visiting the great Lama go this region. We were welcomed at the Lamas house and got his blessings before we headed up to our lodge in Dengboche were we stayed 2 nights.

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Here we enjoyed one acclimatization hike (to 5200m) and a couple of visits to the bakery (our last bakery before Base Camp). Now the surroundings are changing; no more trees and rhododendron, it is now harsh and cold with rocky terrain and a magnificent wiev to more and more snow covered mountains.

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The next two days we hike first to Lobuche (4910m) and then to Gorak Shep (5140m). This is the last little settlement before Base Camp, and the next day we woke up to snow covered surroundings. Everything is so white, clean and shiny!!! What a nice way to enter Base Camp!! Everest Base Camp welcomes us snow covered: the nicest possible way!

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Ama Dablam Expedition 2014 – looking back

Ama Dablam

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Vi flyr fra Makalu Base Camp (BC) over Baruntse BC til Ama Dablam BC. Det er en helt fantastisk helikoptertur, utsikten er helt utrolig. Og møtet med den nye Base Campen er nesten et sjokk; her er det jo folksomt!! Vi har vært vant til å bare være vår lille gruppe, og nå er vi omgitt av mange team. Her er også mange klatrevenner som vi møter igjen. Det er veldig trivelig. Vi flytter raskt inn i teltene våre og inn kommer Ben flygende; det er hjertelig gjensyn. Han var med på Gurka-teamet på Makalu og nå kom han med helikopter fra Kathmandu for å klatre Ama Dablam med Garrett og meg. IMG_7301 IMG_7317 IMG_7370 IMG_3366

Vi er bra akklimatisert etter å ha bodd mellom 4800m og 6800m i over en måned og de siste 3 ukene ikke under 5700m. Det tærer på kroppen og vi merker det. Vi er slitne. Så nå planlegger vi med 4 dager i Base Camp bare for å spise, hvile, gå små turer og buldre litt i fjellet nær BC. Vi har deilig vær og det er jo masse «tykk» luft å puste her nede i BC. Vi monitorerer værvarselet og sammenlikner med andre team i BC. Her må vi planlegge slik at ikke vi er for mange oppe i fjellet på samme tid også, for det er det virkelig ikke plass til, spesielt i Camp 2.

IMG_7389 DSCN0096 DSCN0122 IMG_7453 IMG_7469 IMG_7486 - versjon 2 Etter noen deilige dager i BC, pakker vi sekkene og starter på bestigningen av det utrolig vakre fjellet! Første dagen er en kort og fin dag hvor vi flytter fra BC på 4600m opp til Camp 1 på 5700m. Det er en fin dag hvor vi passerer kjentfolk i både «Yak Camp» og i nedre del av C1. Vi har strålende sol og nesten ingen vind. Vi klatrer opp det siste stykket og balanserer oss gjennom Camp 1 og videre bort til vår lille plass på eggen mot Camp 2. Her kommer vi oss i telt og får fyrt opp primus; mat, te, masse dårlig telthumor :) og tidlig kvelden med mageknip etter utallige latterkramper. IMG_7509 DSCN0134 IMG_7524 - versjon 2 IMG_7550 Morgenen etter tar vi oss god tid til frokost og venter på at den værste morgentrafikken har kommet seg forbi. De fleste er oppe tidlig og klokken 8 ligger vi i soveposen, drikker kaffe og titter på de andre som allerede har startet å klatre. Her kommer det til å bli mye kø. Vi starter senere og klatrer nesten for oss selv. Bare i «yellow tower» er det ventetid. Her er det flere som har problemer og vi blir stående å spille «stein, saks, papir» og digge musikk i fjellveggen en time før det er klart for oss å klatre opp. Det er deilig luftig klatring opp til Camp 2 på ca 5900m. Og i Camp 2 er det folksomt; et skikkelig fragleberg. Teltene klorer seg fast på den minste lille plass som det er mulig å få skviset inn et lite telt. Jeg er «heldig» å få min plass ytterst, med deler av teltet hengende i løse luften. Jeg legger sekken der så jeg ikke skal rulle ut. Her klikker vi oss ikke ut av selen før vi er trygt inne i teltet, og alt som skal gjøres utenfor teltet foregår i sele. Alle som passerer teltet, holder seg i det som et sikkerhetsrekkverk. Vi kommer til Camp 2 i 16tiden; nå er det bare å få i seg mat og drikke, klargjøre alt for toppstøtet og gå tidlig i soveposen. I 18tiden legger vi oss til å sove, det blir ikke så mange timene.

IMG_7566 IMG_7590 IMG_7624 GOPR0101 Allerede klokken 23 er vi oppe og får i oss litt suppe før vi kler oss og starter toppstøtet midnatt. Nå er det kaldt, men stjerneklart og lite vind, nærmest en perfekt toppnatt! Vi klatrer som ett av 3 team denne natten. Vi ligger langt forran de andre og det er ingen kø. Hele natten klatrer vi på sylskarpe egger og opp loddrette vegger, noen med overheng. Det er hard jobbing kontinuerlig helt til vi kommer opp til den gamle Camp 3 (6300m). Her tar vi oss 10 minutter pause men vinden er sterk her og det er for kaldt å ha lengre pause: en sjokolade, vann og vi klatrer videre. Herifra er det is og hardpakket snø opp gjennom Dablam breen. Lyset begynner å komme og det varme lyset fra de første solstrålene treffer fjellrekken i det fjerne. Det er fantastisk å se fargespillet over de hvite fjellene. Solstrålene er kjærkommne. Jeg forstår hvorfor man tilba solen før, jeg gjør det på hvert alpine toppstøt. Nå kommer lyset og varmen. Vi klatrer i jevnt tempo mot toppen og når den kl 0930. Her er en fantastisk utsikt, solskinn og nesten ingen vind. Vi nyter synet av 5 topper over 8000m: Mt Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu og Kanchenjunga. IMG_7652 IMG_7657 - versjon 2 IMG_7661 DSCN0170

Vi gumler sjokolade og drikker vann og koser oss i en time på toppen før vi starter nedstigningen. Nå er det viktig å holde konsentrasjonen oppe; vi har klatret siden midnatt. Det går fint nedover i en vakker utsikt. Vi er nede i Camp 2 ca kl 14, der slapper vi av litt før vi pakker sammen og starter 1530 å klatre videre ned til Camp 1. Nå går ting tregere, her må en konsentrere seg; det er teknisk klatring og vi er slitne nå. Alt går veldig bra og vi er nede i Camp 1 rett før det blir mørkt litt over kl 17. Her får vi i oss mat og drikke før vi slukner raskt.

GOPR0121 IMG_3553 IMG_1678 IMG_1674 Neste morgen spiser vi frokost og pakker sammen, laster opp og starter på turen ned til Base Camp. Det føles som en «mini-tur» sammenliknet med toppstøtet som tok 17 timer. Nede i Base Camp overrasker våre venner oss med skikkelig kake og whiskey. Det blir en trivelig kveld i BC før vi dagen etter pakker sammen og starter vår 2 dagers vandring ned til Lukla hvor vi skal fly ut til Kathmandu.

IMG_7668 IMG_7692 IMG_7694 IMG_7725 Vandreturen er en fantastisk reise i natur og kultur. Første dagen går vi til Namche Bazar og neste dag går vi til Lukla. Underveis bor vi på te-hus og besøker gode kaffeer og handler hos de lokale kjøpmennene. Og i Både Namche Bazar og Lukla må vi selvfølgelig prøve oss på «natte-livet». Og den tredje dagen, etter bare noen timers venting flyr vi ut fra Lukla til Kathmandu. Klatreeventyret er over for denne gang, men jeg kommer snart tilbake :) IMG_7728 - versjon 3 IMG_7744 IMG_7758 IMG_7780 IMG_7799 IMG_3371 Tiden mens vi er i BC og oppe i fjellet krever dessverre livet til 4 klatrere. Våre tanker går til deres pårørende.

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Makalu Expedition 2014 – looking back

 

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Makalu Expedition 2014: looking back

Sist dere hørte ifra meg var jeg i Kathmandu og pakket og forberedte til våres store ekspedisjon. Mye har skjedd siden det….
Ja akurat nå er jeg i Mendoza i Argentina og forbereder for en tur jeg skal guide opp til Aconcagua.

Men først vil jeg ta dere med på min lærerike og fantastiske reise i høst.
Vi startet med våres fokus og motivasjon mot sør-øst-ryggen (SE Ridge) av Makalu.
Gjennomvåte og en smule oppspiste av blodigler kom vi frem til Makalu Base Camp (BC) etter en uke vandring fra Num og Barun Valley (800m) til BC (4800m). Vi hadde regn og tåke det meste av turen, men desto mere fantastisk lysende mennesker som vi møtte og besøkte på veien.

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Ved ankomst Base Camp skifter fokus totalt. Nå pakker vi vekk t-skjorte og shorts og finner frem klatresele, tau og stegjern. Vi kom raskt igang med våres akklimatiseringsturer, bæredag og hadde en natt i Advanced Base Camp (6000m) på SE Ridge.

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Alt virket veldig bra; kroppen fungerte, vi hadde gode værmeldinger og vi var godt i gang med å flytte oppover i fjellet, helt til det britiske teamet på samme rute som oss ønsket oss bort fra ruten på SE Ridge. Ja, dette var det teamet som vi hadde koordinert med i forkant og som vi hadde underskrevet klatretillatelsen overfor de nepalesiske myndighetene hvor vi stod som deltakere. Dette var det teamet som vi skulle dele på byrdene med og kjempe sammen med mot toppen. Nå opplevde vi regelrett å bli truet ned fra fjellet. Vi ble først forsøkt presset for penger, og etter flere ubehagelige og truende opplevelser fant vi det best å forlate SE Ridge og dårlig karma.
Vi pakket sammen, flyttet ned fra fjellet til Base Camp igjen og gjorde oss klare for å flytte hele ekspedisjonen våres til «normalruten» på nordsiden av fjellet. Det vil med andre ord si at vi flyttet oss rundt halve fjellet. Dette var en lang, veldig lang dagsmarsj gjennom et enormt morene-område med flott utsikt til Baruntse, Everest og Lhotse.

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I vår nye Base Camp på 5700m møtte vi de eneste «innbyggerne»: 3 slovenske klatrere, som alerede hadde vært der og klatret i en uke. Vi teamet opp med dem og startet våre rotasjoner opp til Crampon Point (6000m), Camp 1 (6500m) og Camp 2 (6800m).
Alt går veldig bra, vi er i god form og har lagt en god klatreplan.

Men så kommer uværet inn: den store snøstormen som dessverre traff svært hardt noe vest for oss og forulykket 42 personer. Våre tanker går til deres etterlatte.

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Vi ventet 10 dager i base Camp til stormen hadde gitt seg og snøen hadde «satt seg». Nå har vi mistet mye tid og en av slovenerne må forlat oss. Vi begynner å bli for få til å kunne klare å tråkke spor og bære utstyr og sette tau i fjellveggen fra Camp 2 (6800m) til Makalu La (7200m). Vi får nytt håp når et team med 6 Gurkaer kommer til vår Base Camp. Nå er vi nok folk til å jobbe oss opp til Makalu La. Vi gleder oss!

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Vi blir enige om en tidsplan og at Gurka-teamet skal starte en dag før oss. De starter klatringen, men melder tilbake at snøen er for ustabil og returnerer. Dagen etter starter slovenerne, Garrett og jeg vår klatring og finner at snøen er god og det er fine forhold. Vi fortsetter opp til Camp 1 og melder til Base Camp som kan fortelle at Gurka teamet allerede har pakket sammen og startet sin retur ut av fjellet.

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Nå er vi bare 4 igjen på fjellet: de to gjenværende slovenerne Irene og Mojica, Garrett og meg. Vi vil så gjerne klare dette! Vi blir to dager til i Camp 1 og Camp 2 og forsøker, men må bite i det sure eplet og innse at dette nå ikke er mulig med bare fire klatrere. Vi returnere til Base Camp.

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Vi avslutter dagen med en wiskey og Roal Dahl-film på en bitteliten pc-skjerm i et iskaldt telt.

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Morgenen etter våkner jeg av at Moijca roper på hjelp: Irena har hyperventilert siden 0430. Vi forsøker å få pustefrekvensen hennes ned men etter en noe bedre periode forverres hennes situasjon drastisk og vi kaller på helikopter. Garrett og jeg jobber med Irena mens Mojica pakker. Helikopteret kommer etter 30 minutter og vi får evakuert henne. Vi får senere høre at hun ankom sykehuset i Kathmandu uten pust og puls, men etter HLR klarte de å få henne tilbake til livet og hun er nå i Slovenia med kun svekket syn som en konsekvens. Vi er overlykkelige for at det gikk så bra.

Etter en uventet dramatisk morgen måtte vi skynde oss å pakke sammen og sette i marsj for å forsøke å nå Nedre Base Camp (4800m) innen det blir mørkt.

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Vi går raskt nedover. I morene-området går det flere steinras som vi må kaste oss i ly for, noe som resulterer i et ødelagt fingerledd i et «kanakas-tryn» for min del. Vi kommer ned i mørket og tar kvelden raskt for morgenen etter starter et nytt kapittel:
Vi flyr til Ama Dablam Base Camp.

 

Denali 2014

Happy campers :)

Looking back at the 16 fantastic days in the mountains I will here give you pictures and a short overview of the climb:

23 June: packing and flying out to Base Camp at the glacier
24 June: waking up at 3am and marching to camp at 7800ft.
25 June: snowy and windy climb up to our cache point.
26 June: stuck in camp due to more then a meter of snow dumping that night. And fixing my broken tooth.
27 June: one more day in camp due to snow. Having fun snowshoeing and building snowman.
28 June: moving up to camp at 11000ft. Taking with up our cache. Heavy load now!!!

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29 June: the clouds are closing in. We are building snow walls and crossing fingers for better weather.
30 June: moving up our cache to Windy corner at about 13000ft
1 July: moving up to camp at 14000ft
2 July: collecting cache at Windy corner
3 July: moving up our cache to 16000ft ridge
4 July: rest day in camp at 14000ft. Happy 4th of July!
5 July: moving up to camp at 17000ft
6 July: SUMMIT
7 July: staying at camp 17000ft due to snow storm
8 July: 18 hour climb from 17000ft to Bas Camp
9 July: flying out

Happy days!
Vibs / Team Jentesport

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