Stikkordarkiv: forbredelser

Diran Expedition 2016; Preparation and training in Slovenia

diranMy next expedition to Diran 7266m (23,839 ft), Karakoram range in Gilgit-Baltistan in Pakistan, I will be climbing with my good Slovenian climbing friends Irena, Mojca and Tomaz. We first met at Mt Makalu Base camp at 5800m and spent a lot of time together there. All the three of them have climbed several peaks in Pakistan before so I am so happy to be in the team now. It will be loads of things to learn and to experience together!
But first we needed to get together and set all the logistics; we had to plan concerning gear, food and schedule.
Early May I found myself  a cheap ticket to Ljubljana, Slovenia. Very easy…no…So for all of you: if you want to keep the costs down you actually fly all the way over to Istanbul, Turkey and then return to mid Europe: Ljubljana, Slovenia….I felt bad concerning the environment :(
So, after one day travel I finally arrived and was picked up by my dear friends at the airport.
​And who could come up with a better place to do our planning then this place up in the Slovenian Alps!!! Check out my bedroom!!!!

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We had some great days planning. We sorted out everything concerning gear and food; who brings what? how many slings, ice screws, shuffles….? how many tents for which camps? what kind of food and how much? Then we planned for our tickets to Islamabad and we filled in our applications for visa. This all to be sent off so we could get our «letter of invitation». Which all have to be attached when we apply for visa at our respective embassies.
Then after sorting out all the planning and going through all our gear, we needed to start the paper work and emails. Now we had to try to get sponsors ….a very difficult job. So we all agreed to do our efforts in following weeks. First we need a tent, maybe we can borrow it from some climbing friends…. Lets see what we manage. Still working on that!!! Do you have a tent for us ? :) :)
Then we needed base layers. And we are so super happy to get ACLIMA onboard: we are so proud to announce that ACLIMA AS are sponsoring all of us with everything we need concerning base layers and wool!!! During our expedition we will do thoroughly testing of all the great gear we received!
Thank you ACLIMA!!
In between the planning we got the time to enjoy the Slovenian Alps :)
For breakfast Irena invited me to run up the little bump behind her place…only 1000meter up up.
​An excellent way to celebrate my birthday-breakfast :)
And of course we did a 2000m peak near by. In lovely weather we enjoyed it!
…little did I know who was invited: Irena was actually asked to guide the US ambassador to Slovenia.
We had a really fun and nice climb!!!

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And the following pictures are to inspire all of you to come to Slovenia and enjoy this beautiful country! Fantastic mountains, picturesque small villages, charming restaurants, welcoming and hospital people, and everything within short driving (or bicycle) distance. You have it all: interesting history and geography, mountains, cost line, lakes, very tasty food and the charming capital Ljubljana.
Here is to tempt you: Enjoy the pictures!

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Makalu Expedition 2014, South East Ridge: Update

 

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Update from Kathmandu: We are now preparing equipment and packing as the pictures show; packing in bags and barrels, and going through all our medications.
We will have one extra day in Kathmandu and fly out Wednesday the 17th Sep.
The extra day will be used for preparation, packing and enjoying Yoga, Meditation, massage and good food. Then we will be ready to fly out for our trek to Base Camp. Along the trek we will probably be caught by a lot of leeches as the wet conditions and jungle trail brings them out in numbers. As we gain height after about three days we should climb out of the leech zone. We hope the monsoon soon will be over and give us some drier weather.
We are looking forward to enjoy one more day in Kathmandu, but even more to start our journey to the mountain!

Makalu Expedition 2014, South East Ridge; stemningsrapport fra Kathmandu

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Akurat nå har jeg vært her i Kathmandu litt under en uke. Jeg forbreder for vår ekspedisjon. Her bor jeg på et bittelite krypinn midt i den travleste handlegata, med kakling og tuting døgnet rundt. Rommet har et lite vindu som vender ut mot gaten og gir meg all den lyd og eksos jeg bare ønsker :) Rommet kan jeg fint snu meg rundt på; her er både nattbord, en stol og en seng med syltynn madrass (så jeg har likegjerne blåst opp liggeunderlaget mitt og bruker det istedetfor).

Badet er felles ute på gangen…vell, bad…hmmmm… det kalles et bad hvis du såvidt klarer å skvise inn ei doskål og montere et dusjhode like over…så en må stå oppi doen og dusje…nesten…det går med en knekk i knærne.
Jeg koser meg max!! Våkner sånn i 5tiden av et virrvarr av lyder utenfor…da begynner de med sine tuktuk’er, mopeder, tuting, roping og alle andre sjarmerende lyder. Hundene holder på hele natten. Men er man trøtt nok så sover man jo Og….joda jeg har vært ute og matet hundene (jeg er jo over middels glad i dyr…)
Strøm og internett er særdeles ustabilt, men i likhet med alt det andre så tilhører det sjarmen ved denne byen!

Dagene går med til en treningsøkt, handling, organisering av materiell, pakking og arbeid på data’n.

Vi flyr ut fra Kathmandu til Tumlingar tirsdag (hvis været er bra nok  til å fly…det har vært mye regn de siste dagene da monsunen ikke helt vil gi seg).

Følg med, jeg legger snart ut planen fremmover.

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