Stikkordarkiv: expedition

Diran Expedition 2016; Preparation and training in Slovenia

diranMy next expedition to Diran 7266m (23,839 ft), Karakoram range in Gilgit-Baltistan in Pakistan, I will be climbing with my good Slovenian climbing friends Irena, Mojca and Tomaz. We first met at Mt Makalu Base camp at 5800m and spent a lot of time together there. All the three of them have climbed several peaks in Pakistan before so I am so happy to be in the team now. It will be loads of things to learn and to experience together!
But first we needed to get together and set all the logistics; we had to plan concerning gear, food and schedule.
Early May I found myself  a cheap ticket to Ljubljana, Slovenia. Very easy…no…So for all of you: if you want to keep the costs down you actually fly all the way over to Istanbul, Turkey and then return to mid Europe: Ljubljana, Slovenia….I felt bad concerning the environment :(
So, after one day travel I finally arrived and was picked up by my dear friends at the airport.
​And who could come up with a better place to do our planning then this place up in the Slovenian Alps!!! Check out my bedroom!!!!

IMG_6222

We had some great days planning. We sorted out everything concerning gear and food; who brings what? how many slings, ice screws, shuffles….? how many tents for which camps? what kind of food and how much? Then we planned for our tickets to Islamabad and we filled in our applications for visa. This all to be sent off so we could get our «letter of invitation». Which all have to be attached when we apply for visa at our respective embassies.
Then after sorting out all the planning and going through all our gear, we needed to start the paper work and emails. Now we had to try to get sponsors ….a very difficult job. So we all agreed to do our efforts in following weeks. First we need a tent, maybe we can borrow it from some climbing friends…. Lets see what we manage. Still working on that!!! Do you have a tent for us ? :) :)
Then we needed base layers. And we are so super happy to get ACLIMA onboard: we are so proud to announce that ACLIMA AS are sponsoring all of us with everything we need concerning base layers and wool!!! During our expedition we will do thoroughly testing of all the great gear we received!
Thank you ACLIMA!!
In between the planning we got the time to enjoy the Slovenian Alps :)
For breakfast Irena invited me to run up the little bump behind her place…only 1000meter up up.
​An excellent way to celebrate my birthday-breakfast :)
And of course we did a 2000m peak near by. In lovely weather we enjoyed it!
…little did I know who was invited: Irena was actually asked to guide the US ambassador to Slovenia.
We had a really fun and nice climb!!!

IMG_5917 IMG_5884 IMG_5851 IMG_5838

And the following pictures are to inspire all of you to come to Slovenia and enjoy this beautiful country! Fantastic mountains, picturesque small villages, charming restaurants, welcoming and hospital people, and everything within short driving (or bicycle) distance. You have it all: interesting history and geography, mountains, cost line, lakes, very tasty food and the charming capital Ljubljana.
Here is to tempt you: Enjoy the pictures!

IMG_6201 IMG_5773 IMG_5634 IMG_5778

Turning the expedition into relief work, Part 2

Turning the Everest – Lhotse Expedition into Earthquake relief work, Part 2

IMG_6078

I have been involved in projects in Helambu, Gorkha and Sindhulphalchok with Hillary Relief Collective, Karmaflights and my own private initiative.
The shelter project for Kutumsang (and surrounding areas) which is one of my own projects, is still ongoing. Supplies have been purchased with the money you my friends have been so generous to donate.
I am humbled and impressed with the generosity of those who have supported our efforts.
Thank you! Tusen takk! Danke! Grazie! Gracias!

IMG_6027 P1020585

Her are some of the stories and how it all started.

After helping my team’s sherpas and porters cleaning up in Base Camp, I started my walk down the Khumbu Valley to Lukla. On my way I saw minor destructions. Luckily there were not many buildings totally destroyed. Some just needed a lot of repair. I stopped in Pengboche and visited our beloved sherpa Kami and his family. Luckily his house had only minor damage at second floor. I also visited a family who my dear climbing friends Andrea and Karl are supporting their son with education and work. I decided to support his sister: so now I am proudly paying for her next 5 years of school.

P1010900 P1010997

After a couple of days in Namche Bazar Andrea, Karl and I literally ran down to Lukla to catch a plain to Kathmandu. We heard a lot about how it might be in Kathmandu, but to my surprise it was not so different from before. I only saw some buildings totally collapsed. But many stores were closed and the city was very quiet. And people had moved out, living under tarps in their gardens or at all open spaces in town.

IMG_5756 IMG_5759

The people in the streets had changed from climbers, trekkers and other tourists to aid workers. We gathered at some hostels and some coffee shops and discussed how to help in the most efficient way.

I very quickly understood that I had to go out in the field. I volunteered for Hillary Relief Collective and Karmaflights and went out to the Helambu province where we established our FOB (forward operation base) in Timbu.
The first days were focused on delivering out needed food and materials such as rice, oil, blankets and tarps.

P1020290 P1020339

P1020088 P1020084

Then we went on 3 days patrols to spread the word where everyone could come to collect what they urgently needed. And people were coming form a far. Some walked for days, and carried sacks of rice with them home, – with a big smile and a warm «thank you»

P1020307 IMG_5925

P1020354 P1020274

At one of the 3 days patrols I went on, I came to Kutumsang. What I saw there, and on my way up to Kutumsang, was massive destructions. All buildings were totally collapsed. Brave families had tried to save as much as they could and had started sorting out the rubble. They are amazing in their ability to continue their lives and look forward!

IMG_5832 IMG_5793

The 7th of May I celebrated my birthday under a tarp with a kitten on my lap and a warm cup of nepali tea in my hand, surrounded by wonderful people. I will never forget this birthday.

IMG_5933 P1020187

The 12th of May was another strange day:
We had just closed our distribution-room to take a lunch break and were heading back to our little tent camp. We had only walked 20 meters when the ground started shaking. And this was not tremors or aftershocks. A new earthquake had hit Nepal hard.
I had to grab some kids trying to run into their houses to seek for their parents. I hold them tight while they were screaming. We were surrounded by collapsing buildings. Around us and high up in the hillside we could just watch the dust clouds rising from collapsing houses and huge landslides.

We gathered in our tent camp and set our strategy; we couldn’t get hold of a group of our own volunteer who had left for Kathmandu only 30 minutes before the earthquake, so we sent out a patrol to check the road. Later we got news they had safely arrived Kathmandu.
Then our little Aid Post got busy: a 67 year old man was carried down to us. He had broken off humerus (upper arm bone) and torn off his brachial artery. We had to act fast. I was working together with a nepali doctor and a nurse from US. We managed to control his bleeding until we finally got him helicoptered out after 2 hours. Later we got news that he had survived and were in good conditions at the hospital.

P1020330

We continued our work out in Timbu, and delivered out both food, hygiene articles, mattresses and clothes, but now it shifted to also deliver out materials to rebuild, such as hammer, nails and corrugated steel.
IMG_5946 IMG_6026

Then I headed back to Kathmndu, but only for a couple of days to get a proper shower and do some laundry. Then I headed out on my next project: out to the epicentre in Gorkha. And what awaited me there can not be described in words. Everything was rubble, nothing was left standing….not a single thing, not even a stable or an outhouse.
We were welcomed with open arms, big smiles and several cups of tea. I stayed for some days making sure supply arrived and starting building temporary shelters together with the villagers before heading out for the next village, and the next village, and then the next school and the next health post….
This were really busy times, trying to get the maximum out of my time and the materials we managed to provide.

IMG_5983 P1020539

IMG_6010 IMG_6054

IMG_6058 P1020757

At one of the villages I managed to get a bad stomach infection and had to get back to Kathmandu for a couple of days rest (and easy access to toilet). Then I headed out again for more rebuilding projects. This time back to Helambu and Kutumsang. Here I started my own projects with invaluable help from Laki. He and his family who lives in Kutumsang has become my family over here. The only thing missing is my nepali language skills…..working on it :)

P1020838 P1020880

P1020996 P1030099

In Helambu we started building temporary shelters for the health post in cooperation with my dear friend Lizzy. Then we continued with facilitating building temporary shelters for 5 different schools, one more health post and 5 villages. I got fantastic help from Sudip, Kashmir and Mewack; 3 engineer students from Kathmandu. And how did we manage; well we got the materials and tools out there, the villagers came walking, some 3 to 4 hours walk, to learn how to build and to carry home the materials. Laki has been following up on these projects all the time, running from village to village providing me with reports and photos. And the results are so rewarding to see. If it wasn’t for this effort, approximately 800 children would have been without any school, 7000 villagers would have been without any health post and 250 villagers would have been without proper shelter.

P1030151 P1030162

P1030231 P1030234

IMG_7035 IMG_7165

My last project before leaving Nepal after more then 3 months work, was with Remote Access Operation (RAO) for World Food Program (WFP). They needed mountaineers to help getting supplies into remote areas that were cut off by landslides due to the earthquake.
I worked together with the local mule drivers to open the Larke Pass at 5100m to get rice and oil over the pass and into the remote areas in upper Gorkha. These villages have normally supply carried in by 1000 mules – daily! Now they were totally cut off. We had to work on the pass for 3 weeks before it was possible to start the mule trains going over the Larke Pass supplying 20000 households with 65 tons of rice.

P1030481 IMG_6221

At the last little village I visited at the other side of Larke Pass, I found Pemba; a low-cast man who was paralysed and just waiting to die. He was a father of 7 and his wife was pregnant with their 8th child. I could see right away that this man needed to be evacuated and with the great help from Isabella Messanger and her organisation KarmaFlights, we managed to helicopter him out the same afternoon. And I am so happy to tell you that his wife gave born to a perfect little baby girl 5 days after Pemba got evacuated. And now 2 months later, Pemba is ready to go home to his family and see his daughter for the first time.

IMG_0555 IMG_6907

IMG_7334 IMG_7361

As of mid August 2015, over 390 aftershocks have occurred.

I returned back to Norway but not for long. And now I am back in Nepal to continue the work with all this different projects that we started before the monsoon.

My last expedition to Khan Tengri was dedicated to support our earthquake affected brothers and sisters in Nepal.
Stay tuned here to see my updates from my work in Nepal and from my Khan Tengri Expedition.

P1010746

Take care of your self – and others!
Vibs / Team Jentesport

Turning the expedition into relief work, Part 1

Jentesport i Camp 2 på Mt Everest

Turning the Everest – Lhotse Expedition into Earthquake relief work

What was supposed to be an expedition in white, cold, clean snow on Mt Everest and Lhotse, turned in to be a journey in rubble, aid trucks, aid work, shelter-building, mules, rice, metal sheets, pipes, bandages and wonderful people!

Last time you heard from me I was moving from Base Camp to Camp 2
It started out as a cold night turning into a wonderful day climbing through Khumbu Icefall up to Camp !

P1010366 P1010354

P1010386 P1010487

P1010497 P1010523

We had two nights in Camp 1 before we at the 25th of April woke up to cloudy weather and started to move up to Camp 2.

P1010593 P1010599

I was at the glacier between Camp 1 and Camp 2 when we heard huge avalanches coming down both from the Everest side and from the Nuptse wall. The ground was shaking as if I was standing in a little boat in rough sea. We were four of us gathering and holding together until the shaking and avalanches had past. Little did we know about the earthquake causing a regional disaster…..

We moved as quick as possible up to Camp 2 and there we got the news about the earthquake. We got news over our radios about the devastation in Base Camp. Our sherpa friends tried to contact their families without any luck as all telephone lines were out. We gathered around a little radio tuning in some FM stations and got bad news.

P1010610 P1010639

We waited it out up in Camp 2 and started rationing food, batteries etc.  After two nights in Camp 2 we moved down to Camp 1 and got evacuated by helicopter down to Base Camp.

P1010621 P1010696

What waited us in Base Camp was beyond words. Huge areas swept away….
Bits and pieces spread all over, people wounded and equipment destroyed or gone. But I met my friends…. alive and most of them without injuries. I was so happy!
But very sad about losing so many good people in this huge disaster.

P1010766 IMG_5655

I stayed in Base Camp to help cleaning up. my tent was gone: I found it crashed into a big rock 200 meter away from where it originally was placed.
So I moved into my friend Ryan Water/ Mountain Professionals dining tent. I stayed in Base Camp and we all discussed about possibilities to continue climbing, but we found out very quickly that this is a huge disaster; we can not continue up here.
And I found out; I can be of good help other places in this country and try to give back a little to this wonderful people of Nepal.

IMG_5612 P1010746

So I left Base Camp and a dream
But I started on a new journey, another dream, so fulfilling and so rewarding; helping the people in need.

Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2015: Journey to Everest BC

P1000776

My journey from Kathmandu to Everest Base Camp

Snowy morning in BC. I can’t believe we have been in Base Camp already 3 days…well, in a way it also seems like we have been here forever.
So, what has happen since I left Kathmandu (and left kind of reliable internet and connection to the world?..)?
We have had a fantastic hike up the Khumbu Valley. First we flew into Lukla, a very short flight 40 minutes from Kathmandu with a lot of turbulence and a scary landing which I all missed cause I slept through it. We had breakfast next to the airfield before we headed out into our adventure towards Everest Base Camp.

P1000083 P1000084

The first day we only walked for about 4 hours including a tea break. And arrived Phakding and moved into our lodge there after a wonderful hike through small villages and along the river, enjoying flowering cherry trees and rhododendron, children playing with thin cans, the long suspension bridges and loaded yaks.
This is our scenery through the Khumbu valley, increased with more stupas (small temples) along the way. The next day we hiking to Namch Bazar (3440m), the capital of the Himalayas. Here we stay for 3 nights and go for acclimatization hikes and of course visiting the bakery serving good cakes, coffee and wifi.
After our 3 days in Namche Bazar we head off to Deboche (3820m), but of course with a stop in Tengboche (3860) with the beautiful monastery and the famous bakery. We attended the ceremony in the monastery which was wonderful meditative, and then we headed down to our lodge for the night. The day after we hike to Dengboche (4400m), but not before visiting the great Lama go this region. We were welcomed at the Lamas house and got his blessings before we headed up to our lodge in Dengboche were we stayed 2 nights.

P1000107 P1000237

Here we enjoyed one acclimatization hike (to 5200m) and a couple of visits to the bakery (our last bakery before Base Camp). Now the surroundings are changing; no more trees and rhododendron, it is now harsh and cold with rocky terrain and a magnificent wiev to more and more snow covered mountains.

P1000450 P1000263

The next two days we hike first to Lobuche (4910m) and then to Gorak Shep (5140m). This is the last little settlement before Base Camp, and the next day we woke up to snow covered surroundings. Everything is so white, clean and shiny!!! What a nice way to enter Base Camp!! Everest Base Camp welcomes us snow covered: the nicest possible way!

IMG_5537/ Vibs

 

 

Aconcagua, Januar 2015: Del 2 Base Camp – Summit

IMG_8312

Aconcagua, Januar 2015:
Del 2, Base Camp – Summit og sikkert ned igjen
Livet i Base Camp (BC) er hærlig; Og skikkelig ferie for oss som er guider; ingen matlaging, snøsmelting osv. Og her er mange kjente å dra på besøk til, dem man bare treffer oppe i fjellene – det er trivelige gjennsyn! Alltid god stemning i Base Camp. Vi har en hviledag her før vi starter å «flytte» oppover i fjellet. Først starter vi med en bæredag dvs at vi bærer opp slik som alt kjøkkenutstyr, mat og «summit»-klær til neste camp. Vi forsøker å få opp så mye som mulig for på flyttedagen blir det alltid tunge sekker uansett for da inkluderes sovepose, liggeunderlag og telt.

IMG_8092 IMG_8106 IMG_8120 IMG_8163

Neste dag flytter vi fra BC Plaza Argentina opp til nedre Camp1 (C1). Det er en enkel dag hvor vi bare øker høyden fra 4200m til ca 4800m. Her etablerer vi camp sammen med to andre team og har et sosialt utekjøkken sammen med dem siden været er så fantastisk. Foreløpig ser værprognosene flotte ut med lite vind så vi følger skjema og har påfølgende dag  bæredag for deretter å flytte opp til Camp 2 Guanacos på ca 5400m. Her bor vi sammen med ca 6 andre team. Dette er en flott camp med fantastisk utsikt og en bekk som renner gjennom camp og sørger for lett tilgang til vann (når den ikke er frosset til).

IMG_8205 IMG_8195 IMG_8173 IMG_8171
Vi får inn værvarsel som gir oss sterk vind i høyden så vi legger inn en ekstra hviledag før vi flytter opp til Camp 3 Colera på ca 6000m. Her er det folksomt; dette er high camp for begge ruter: både Vacas og Horocones (normalruten). Nå forbreder vi oss til toppstøtet i morgen. Vi pakker ferdig sekkene, får i oss mat og tar tidlig kvelden for morgenen etter er det revelje allerede klokken 04 og vi starter å gå mot toppen kl 0530.

IMG_8247  IMG_8255 IMG_8260  IMG_8259
Vi har strålende vær og nesten ingen vind. Det er fantastisk og vi er mange team som går sammen og nyter turen: først som lysende perler (hodelyktene) på en snor oppover fjellsiden, deretter i det fantastiske orange lyset fra de første solstrålene, siluetten av Aconcagua speilet i atmosfæren og de lange skyggene våre. Vi tar en god pause i «the cave» før vi klatrer opp Canaleta hvor vi må vokte oss for mange steinras.

IMG_8287 IMG_8271 IMG_8270 IMG_8265
Vell oppe kan vi nyte en fantastisk utsikt i nesten ingen vind. Vi nyter dette til max tid kl 1630. Da bærer det ned til Camp 3; varm suppe, te og en god natts søvn. IMG_8222 IMG_8221

Dagen etter pakker vi opp alt utstyr på sekkene: nå skal fjellet «ryddes». Vi skal ha med alt ned fra Camp 3 Colera på ca 6000m til Base Camp Plaza de Mulas på 4300m Det er en lang dagsmarsj ned men med en uslåelig utsikt som en bare må gå og la sige inn. Vell nede i Base Camp på Horoconas-siden av fjellet, er vi 3 team som har fulgt hverandre hele veien, – vi samler oss nå til feiring med vin og seiersmiddag: alle nådde toppen! Vi feirer under en fantastisk stjernehimmel før vi «crasher» på rekke og rad i spise-teltet. Dagen etter er siste dagen hvor vi vandrer ut Horoconas-dalen fra BC Plaza de Mulas. Vi tilbringer en natt i Penitentes før vi drar til Mendoza og møter sivilisasjonen igjen.

Atter en fantastisk tur til Aconcagua er over, men jeg håper å komme tilbake snart!!

Og kanskje du er med da?

IMG_8347 IMG_8353

Makalu Expedition 2014 – toppstøtet er i gang!

En god bit in i oktober – og mye har skjedd på Ekspedisjonen til Makalu!
Her kommer litt oppdateringer fra Madison Mountaineering:

«7th October 2014
After moving base camp 5.5 miles and 3,100 vertical feet up the Barun glacier and then climbing up to Camp 1 at 20,100 ft. on the Makalu standard North West route, today the team established Camp 2 at 21,210 ft. Garrett called in the following dispatch via satellite phone.
Hi, this is Garrett Madison calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition. Today is Tuesday October 7th. It’s 6:30pm and we are tucked in up at our Camp 2 on Makalu. Beautiful day climbing up from Camp 1 to Camp 2! We had clear skies. We could see for miles and miles in every direction and we are the only ones up here right now. Here’s a few down at Camp 1. But great to be up here on the mountain having a fantastic time. We are going to climb up towards Camp 3 tomorrow, probably come back down to this camp and then head down the following day. Everything’s going great and we’ll check in soon.»

DSC_1568-1024x682

Og så har de kommet seg tilbake til Base Camp for å planglegge turen videre – her er en oppdatering fra dem derifra:

«11th October 2014
After a few nights up high on Makalu at elevations of approximately 21,000′ we are now back in base camp relaxing and enjoying the comforts of our camp. We accomplished our goal of stocking camps with gear and food, as well as acclimatizing to the higher altitudes.
We experienced perfect weather thus far, but we hear from our forecasting service that the weather is about to change. Apparently a storm is brewing in the bay of Bengal, and is moving north towards us, reaching our area on October 14th. We could have up to 12 inches of snow per day during this time. We are crossing our fingers and hoping a strong wind will appear and blow this low pressure system off track before it reaches us. The benefit of this storm is that it may push the jet stream (high winds), currently over the summit preventing a summit bid, north away from the mountain so that we have calm conditions for an extended period.
Our plan will be to rest a few days in base camp and see what happens…»

I Base Camp ble de fast noen dager i vente på godt vær…

«15th October 2014
Greetings from Makalu base camp!
The forecasted storm came and deposited about 30 centimeters of new snow in our base camp.
Currently the winds are still very high, we hope they will drop in a few days. We are waiting patiently here in base camp, enjoying the clear blue sky and sunshine during the day, and if the weather cooperates soon we will make our summit push.
Everything is good here, as we have plenty of nice food, books, movies and some very friendly Slovenian climbers to share the time with.
We will check in again soon,

Garrett Madison»

Så ENDELIG har det fått et værvindu – og igår startet de selve toppstøtet!

«18th October 2014
Here we go! The summit push is on! We spoke with Garrett a little while ago from Makalu base camp. According the tracking map, the team has just left base camp and is heading up to Camp 1 (6150m / 20,177ft.). Weather and conditions pending, the rough target for summit day is currently October 24th. Follow along with the team by visiting this dispatch page and monitor the real-time RainOn tracking. More details as we get them.»

Makalu kart okt 19

Følg med videre på denne spennende ekspedisjonen!

Maria for Vibs
Team Jentesport

Makalu Expedition 2014 – ny oppdatering!

Det er på tide med en liten oppdatering på Vibs sin ekspedisjon til Makalu!

I slutten av september hadde de sin Puja-seremoni etter noen akklimatiseringsturer og søk etter en plass å etabelere neste camp. Daten etter seremonien var planen om å flytte opp til denne campen.

«29th September 2014:

Yesterday we went for an acclimatization hike up to 19,000′ and found a good location for our advanced base camp on the South-East Ridge route. The hiking was mostly on rock and scree and we reached the snowy ridge line where we took a break before heading down.

Today we had our Puja ceremony in base camp. We built a small stone altar and burned juniper at it’s base; asking the mountain for safe passage. This ceremony is an essential part of any Himalayan climbing expedition in Nepal or Tibet and sometimes Pakistan as well, depending on who is on the climbing team. Now that we have completed this important ceremony we can begin climbing the mountain.

Tomorrow, our plan is to rest and organize equipment, then the following day move up to our advanced base camp (ABC) to spend a night or two to begin acclimatizing.

Garrett Madison / Madison Mountaineering»

Puja-seremoni

Etter noen bra dager i ABC-campen har de nå besluttet å endre rute for bestigelsen av Makalu. De kommer derfor flytte sin nåværende camp ca 760 meter høyere opp. Her ser de frem til å utforske den andre siden av fjellet og fra denne camp vil de ha flere valgmuligheter til den videre klatringa til topps.

«2nd October 2014:

We had a great time the last few days up at our advanced base camp on the South East Ridge. Great views of the surrounding peaks and fun climbing on the ridge line! We are now enjoying a rest day in base camp, with hot showers and great food!

We have decided to change our climbing route to the Northwest side of the mountain or what is the normal route via the Makalu La. This means we will move our base camp tomorrow up the Barun Glacier about 2500′ higher than our current camp, to approximately 18,500′ (5639m). We are looking forward to exploring this side of the mountain as we have not yet seen it from this angle. It’s great that our climbing permit allows us to climb on both sides.

We are doing well, the days are typically sunny and clear in the morning with clouds and some snow in the afternoon / evening.

We will check in again soon!
Garrett Madison / Madison Mountaineering»

Advanced camp

Vibs hilser så godt via Garrett og vi ønsker lykke til videre på den spennende ekspedisjonen!

Map Makalu Expedition 2014
Dette kart viser hvor Vibs er akkurat nå.

Makalu Expedition 2014 – Vibs rapporterer fra Base Camp

Lørdag formiddag dumpet det in en epost fra Vibs!
De har nå kommet seg til Base Camp Makalu og her følger en oppdatering fra turen så langt:

Makalu Base Camp - photo Garrett Madison

Her kommer en hilsen fra Base Camp Makulu 4865 m. Vi kom oss endelig over skydekket som vi har vanket rundt i en uke. Det var fantastisk å komme over skylaget og endelig få se de fantastisk vakre fjellene!

Vi har hatt en helt utrolig uke gjennom helt øde områder. Kan ikke tro at det bare er en uke siden vi fløy fra Kathmandu. Deretter kjørte vi i o dager på nesten ufrekomelige veier. Til slutt var de bare krøterstier igjen og vi startet fra 500 m og har steget jevnt opp hit til Base Camp på 4865 m.

Vi har vandret gjennom tykk regnskog og blitt spist av blodigler. Vi er de eneste ikke-lokale her og det har vært en opplevelse å bli invitert inn i steinhyttene deres og bli servert fersk yak-melk, yak-ost og nypoteter. Og langs hele ruten får vi stadig velsignelser og lykkeønsker. Vi har hatt regn det meste av vandreturen inn hit, så da vi endelig kom over skydekket og så fjellene var det helt magisk!

Igår hadde vi en deilig middag her i BC og vi fikk takket våre portere som nå drar hjem, og så rigget vi opp og hadde filmkveld i spiseteltet. Våre nepaesiske venner valgte film og det ble et herlig gjennsyn med Top Gun. Etter filmen kunne vi pusse tenner under en helt fabelaktig stjernehimmel med mange stjerneskudd.

Idag har vi hatt en hviledag her i BC. Vi har installert oss, vasket klær og kommet oss i orden. I morgen tar vi en liten akklimatiseringstur i nærområdet og mandag har vi Pudja-seremoni. Dette er en fin tradisjon for å be fjellets guder om tillatelse til å klatre det. Seremonien holdes av en lama.
Tirsdag satser vi på å klatre til Camp1 på ca 6000 m og muligens ha en natt der før vi kommer ned hit til BC igjen.

Vi er i god form og gleder oss!

Take care peeps!
/ Heia fra Vibs

Makalu Expedition 2014 – Vibs rapporterer

Det har nå gått noen dager og Vibs sammen med Garrett fra Madison Mountaineering har kommet et stykke på vei.

Her kommer en kort rapport:

«After flying from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar and then travelling 32 miles overland by jeep to the village of Num, the team finally hit the trail. Today’s first segment of the trek to base camp started with a 2,400 ft. downhill hike to bottom of a river valley, cross the river and then a swift 2 mile climb back up 2,900 ft. to the village of Seduwa (1646m / 5,400 ft.). Over the course of the next three days, the team will trek to a high pass of 4237m / 13,900 ft. before descending into Barun River valley to spend a few more days trekking up to base camp at 4630m / 15,190 ft.»

Uten navn

Makalu Expedition 2014, South East Ridge; Khandbari

map study

I dag er vi endelig igang :) Det føles godt å være ute av Kathmandu og komme oss et godt stykke inn i det ekte elementet!
Vi fløy fra Kathmandu til Tumlingtar hvor vi møtte våres sherpa Lhakpa. Fra Tumlingtar kjørte vi opp til Khandbari hvor vi tilbrakte resten av dagen på å studere kart og forbrede turen videre.
Vi har hatt fint flyvær i dag, men på ettermiddagen bygde skyene seg opp og vi hadde et voldsomt tordenvær her i kveld.
Vi bor her på et veldig fint Te-hus, og spiser fantastsik god nepalesisk mat!! Nå er det godt at den harde jobbingen snart starter for nå har det vært mye god mat :)
Nå regner det masse utenfor og vi er ganske fornøyde med å bo på te-hus og ikke i telt. Den kjøreturen som normalt sett tar 4 timer kan nok fort bli dobbelt så lang i morgen.

I morgen kjører vi til Num og starter vandringen fra Num inn til Base Camp. Vi regner med å bruke en uke på å komme oss til Base camp på ca 4800m.

Vi gleder oss masse til å komme oss innover i dalen og vinne litt høyde nå.

Vibs