Stikkordarkiv: klatreekspedisjon

Makalu Expedition 2014 – Vibs rapporterer

Det har nå gått noen dager og Vibs sammen med Garrett fra Madison Mountaineering har kommet et stykke på vei.

Her kommer en kort rapport:

«After flying from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar and then travelling 32 miles overland by jeep to the village of Num, the team finally hit the trail. Today’s first segment of the trek to base camp started with a 2,400 ft. downhill hike to bottom of a river valley, cross the river and then a swift 2 mile climb back up 2,900 ft. to the village of Seduwa (1646m / 5,400 ft.). Over the course of the next three days, the team will trek to a high pass of 4237m / 13,900 ft. before descending into Barun River valley to spend a few more days trekking up to base camp at 4630m / 15,190 ft.»

Uten navn

Makalu Expedition 2014, South East Ridge; Khandbari

map study

I dag er vi endelig igang :) Det føles godt å være ute av Kathmandu og komme oss et godt stykke inn i det ekte elementet!
Vi fløy fra Kathmandu til Tumlingtar hvor vi møtte våres sherpa Lhakpa. Fra Tumlingtar kjørte vi opp til Khandbari hvor vi tilbrakte resten av dagen på å studere kart og forbrede turen videre.
Vi har hatt fint flyvær i dag, men på ettermiddagen bygde skyene seg opp og vi hadde et voldsomt tordenvær her i kveld.
Vi bor her på et veldig fint Te-hus, og spiser fantastsik god nepalesisk mat!! Nå er det godt at den harde jobbingen snart starter for nå har det vært mye god mat :)
Nå regner det masse utenfor og vi er ganske fornøyde med å bo på te-hus og ikke i telt. Den kjøreturen som normalt sett tar 4 timer kan nok fort bli dobbelt så lang i morgen.

I morgen kjører vi til Num og starter vandringen fra Num inn til Base Camp. Vi regner med å bruke en uke på å komme oss til Base camp på ca 4800m.

Vi gleder oss masse til å komme oss innover i dalen og vinne litt høyde nå.

Vibs

Makalu Expedition 2014, South East Ridge; waving goodbye

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We are waiving goodbye!
Best way to follow the expedition progress is to «like» Madison Mountaineering på Facebook.

We will be posting regular dispatches to www.madisonmountaineering.com:Makalu 2014 expedition dispatch page with text, audio, real-time RainOn expedition tracking, and photos during our journey. Stay Tuned!

Vibs

Makalu Expedition 2014, South East Ridge; The mountain and our plan

Makalu Title

MAKALU 8463m
Makalu, the world’s fifth highest peak rising to 27,765 feet (8,463 meters) situated just 14 miles east of Everest in the Khumbu region. Its size alone is impressive, but its perfect pyramid structure with four sharp ridges makes this mountain all the more spectacular. It is interesting to note that the summit ridge is the demarcation point indicating the border between Nepal on the Southern side and Tibet to the North.

The name of the mountain was probably taken from the Sanskrit word Maha-Kala, which means Big Black and is a by-name of Shiva – one of the most important gods of Hinduism. Shiva is sometimes an evil, cruel destroyer but at other times he tends to be gentle and kind-hearted. The mountain has another name in the local dialect – Kumba karna, which means The Giant.

Makalu has proved to be a challenging climb, as only five of its first sixteen attempts were successful.There are no easy routes on the mountain with the South East Ridge being one of the most dramatic and challenging. At over ten kilometres long and with much of the ridge knife-edge, it presents a challenge to rival any on the 8,000m summits.
In 1970 a Japanese team were the first reaching the summit via the South East Ridge. In 1976 a Spanish/ Czech team climbed via the  South-West buttress and continued along the South East Ridge to the summit.

Madison Mountaineering with Garrett, myself and our sherpa will climb parallel to a british team at the mountain. This is a bigger team which we are dependent on especially in terms of logistic. We will follow their rhythm at the mountain. 
The approach to Base Camp will involve an internal flight from Kathmandu to the airstrip at Tumlingar (510m) followed by a 7-10 days trek through the rugged and remote foothills of the Makalu-Barun region. So begins the all important acclimatisation process, gaining height steadily until Base Camp is established at 4,800m.

Once at base camp, several days will be spent acclimatising before an Advanced Base Camp (ABC) is established on the ridge at 5800m. From here we will get our first views of the route ahead as well as the peaks of neighbouring Tibet.  Three further fixed camps will be established as we move up the mountain, the highest of these being at the col at 6700m. Beyond this point we will climb alpine style, carrying sufficient provisions and equipment to support an extended period above 7000m as we push for the summit.

Guarding the route to the summit at 7500m is the Black Gendarme; a steep and formidable rock buttress that straddles the ridge. It is the key to the ridge and summit slopes beyond. Here the climbers will be exposed to freezing temperatures and the full force of the unrelenting winds, resting only at two high altitude bivouacs before climbing the final ridge that rises steeply to the summit at 8463m.

We will be posting regular dispatches to http://madisonmountaineering.com/makalu-2014-launched/ : Makalu 2014 expedition dispatch page with text, audio, real-time RainOn expedition tracking, and photos during our journey.  Stay Tuned!

Kathmandu Sept 2014

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Kathmandu September 2014

Sender dere hilsen fra en koselig kafe i Thamel, Kathmandu. Jeg ankom mitt bittelille krypinn i en støvete og velltrafikkert gate i hjertet av denne sjarmerende byen i går kveld etter en lang reise fra Tanzania.
I dag har jeg kunnet nyte alle intrykkene; det er fantastisk å være tilbake!
I morgen starter jeg mine forberedelser med å klargjøre utstyr, gjøre innkjøp og røpe hvor min neste ekspedisjon går.
Mandag ankommer Garrett og vi vil bruke et par dager her i Kathmandu på å klargjøre for vår neste Madison Mountaineering ekspedisjon. Hvor drar vi? :)

Følg med i morgen :)